COUSU D’OR
Couture designs with EKAYA, handloom luxury brand from India
Exhibition January 22 – February 25 2018
In order to bring this 2018 event to a successful conclusion, the Federation has sought in India, several companies that could support this project in the form of offering premium fabrics to the designers, members of the ‘Federation Française de la Creation Couture Sur Mesure - Paris.
They have entered into a partnership, with the vision of developing projects combining the French Fashion know –how with the rich Indian textile heritage that includes innumerable varieties of luxury fabrics and hand-woven fabrics.
The members of the Federation have designed a collection of gowns related to high end French fashion, using some of these luxurious fabrics, overtaking the Indian dress codes, opening up some opportunities for these fabrics on the European market.
The 14 members of the federation have beautifully used the fabrics and given them a new life. The exhibition has also invited American Designer Colleen Quen, as a guest of honor participant during the exhibition.
Ekaya has created a special capsule collection comprising of luxurious ivory-coloured fabrics for ‘Cousu d’or’. Since the theme was bespoke French wedding wear, Ekaya puts together an array of unique fabrics both from Ekaya archives and newly designed collection themes.
CREATORS:
Beaumenay Joannet
Isabelle Beaumenay-Joannet is a graduate of the School of Fine Arts in Saint-Etienne and Studio Berçot. She has been assistant to Veronique Leroy before creating her own brand in Paris in 1995. Isabelle crafts her collections in a free spirit, inspired by great masters such as Madeleine Vionnet, Jeanne Lanvin, and Yves Saint-Laurent. Her favorites include organza silks,satin, crepe, gazar, tulle, plumetis, lace. Her glamorous creations, sexy and full of surprises denude the bride's back, to play with very thin straps and overlays, and dance all over her silk skirts. She received the great new label Fabrique à Paris
Headdress Sophie Papiernik
Pigmentary paint by Anna Sergueeva-Lainé
Pleating by Maison du Pli
Handwoven Banarasi Metallic Fabric motifs : circle Warp: Zari Weft: Zari Technique Used: kadwa
Handwoven Banarasi Tissue Motifs: Geometric Warp: Tissue : Weft :Tissue Technique Used: Kadwa
Sophie Castagnetti
Armed with a diploma in architecture, followed by being a model maker and a long professional experience in design, Sophie has always dreamt of working with materials, fabrics... and with a seamstress mother, she naturally followed the path to styling. Sophie Castagnetti began her professional life in 1998, initially from an apartment, and then opened her boutique in Paris in 2004.
Headdress Bénédicte Morvan
Handwoven Banarasi Cotton in Cutwork Weave Check Pattern Warp: Cotton Weft: Cotton Technique Used: Cutwork
www.larobedemariee.com
Guenaelle Debarnot
After a degree course that allowed her to acquire 4 diplomas, followed by 15 years of
experience in haute couture with fashion brands like Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior andChanel, Guenaëlle Debarnot created Etoffes & Silhouettes in Vitry-sur-Seine, with the intention of linking appeal and excellence by achieving high fashion and tailor-made wedding dresses, evening and cocktail outfits along with their accessories. Elegance, refinement, balance of proportions 0f silhouette and style, noble and original materials, are all behind her aesthetic principles which are constantly enriched by her interactions with clients.
Handwoven Banarasi Silk Motifs: Rose Warp: Silk Weft: Silk Technique Used: Hadwa
www.etoffes-et-silhouettes.com
Aurélie Dillon
After acquiring a diploma in Costume Designer Arts and Crafts that allowed her to work on corsetry and volumes of historical dresses, Aurélie then chose to complete her training with a Master Fashion Designer at the Atelier Chardon Savard. The challenge was to put forward uniqueness in creativity while putting together a lucid collection. A Master in Fashion Marketing contributes to her career, enriched by several internships and professional experiences including the costumes of the Festival of Art Lyric of Aix en Provence and collaborating with the designer Ioana Craciun. A solid technical knowledge coupled with an open mind gives her the liberty to be able to create without any constraint. Aurélie is also sensitive to the inspirations of the past as well as the contemporary styles. The richness of her career allows her to understand you and fulfill all your desires.
Pearl embroidery by Marie Antunes
Handwoven Banarasi Silk Motifs: Geometric Warp: Silk Weft: Silk Technique Used: Hadwa
Mirna El-Hage
Mirna El-Hage began her career as a fashion designer in 1980 in Beirut and 2 years later,
decided to expand her knowledge in Paris where she joined the Paris-Modéliste Institute and courses at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, enhanced with internships at Letz- Martin and Pierre Balmain. After her return to Lebanon, Mirna acquires a job in Dubai. She subsequently launches her own brand in 2003 and inaugurates her training institute in 2009.
Today her workshop employs 20 workers.
Handwoven Banarasi Mashru Silk Motifs: Traditional Banarasi booti Technique Used : Hadwa
Fanny Liautard
Her world is filled with perfection, excellence and expertise that contributes to the emotional magic of true luxury. A graduate from the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, coupled with her Haute Couture training, Fanny began at Balmain and spent several years at Hubert de Givenchy and then created for several prestigious fashion brands in France. Her favorite creations are: formal, evening, cocktail wear, tuxedos, fine lingerie and fashion accessories.
Flowers and accessories by Johanna Braitbart
Handwoven Banarasi Cotton Motifs: Floral Warp: Cotton Weft: Cotton Technique Used : Hadwa
Chikankari embroidery
www.fannyliautard.com
Myryem Haran
20 years of experience in designing, Myryem Heran welcomes clients currently in her showroom in Marseille. Her well-known and refined creations divulge her expertise in haute couture on fresh bustier dresses in pastel colors.Tissage main armure Hadwa, Broché de soie motif inspiration turque.
Handwoven Silk in Kadwa Weave Motifs: Turkish Inspired Warp: Silk Weft: Georgette Technique Used: Hadwa
Sylvie Kameni
After her technical training, Sylvie Kameni, from Cameroon, joined the Chambre Syndicale de Paris and the Yves Saint-Laurent workshops. She is a master crafts expert and stylist. A great admirer of Valentino and Van Gogh she started her workshop in Marseille in 2000. She specialises in designing custom-made wedding dresses and evening outfits as well (dresses, costumes, corsets, bustiers among others. Her collection of men’s and children’s wear is there to be discovered in many southern cities.
Chikankari embroidery
www.sylviekameni.com
LetzMartin
After an internship at Christian Lacroix and a stint at Torrente haute couture, Pierre Letz graduated from the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Daniel Martin, graduated from Esmod, then was in charge of the wedding collection at Hélène Gainville. They created the label Letz-Martin in 1989 in Paris. They collaborate with Maison Lemarié and with Chanel, Ralph Lauren, Ralph Rucci, Ungaro, Yves Saint Laurent and Vera Wang. They incorporated embroidered ceramic elements by Fanny Acquart –Gensollen. In fact, one of their dresses won the prize of fashion creation for the city of Paris.
Chikankari embroidery
www.ccouture-paris.com
Claire Sarmadi
Passionate about couture from the young age of 16, Claire Sarmadi learnt, along with her classical studies, custom-made tailoring, fashion design, hand embroidery, art restoration and textile designing. Recognized as the Best Craftsperson of France in 2011, Claire Sarmadi exhibits regularly her creations that include her collection of seams and accessories "Unique pieces, exceptional models", creations inspired by history, tradition, travels, avant-garde and contemporary art.
Handwoven Banarasi Silk Motifs: Geometric Warp: Silk Weft: Silk Technique Used : Hadwa
Handwoven Banarasi Cotton Motifs: Floral Technique Used : Cutwork
Handwoven Banarasi Georgette
Motifs: Traditional Banarasi booti Warp: Georgette Weft: Georgette Technique Used : Hadwa
www.claire-sarmadi-creation.france-artisanat.fr
Ali Thompson
This designer undertook a tailor-made training which led her to the creation of costumes for the Berlin Opera and for the cinema as well. She graduated from the Berlin Academy of Arts and after several years at the Fashion and Design Academy in Berlin, she has been running her couture brand "Ali Thompson", since 2008 where high-end creations are made to measure and her collections are available as well. A designer par excellence for city wear, wedding dresses and evening gowns '' Tapis Rouge '', her brand is defined by the refinement which is a result of her craftsmanship, associated with exquisite hand-picked materials, such as silk, lace, linen. A series of creations in embroidery are an embodiment of her style.
Handwoven Banarasi Cotton Motifs: Floral Technique Used : Cutwork
Handwoven Banarasi Metallic Fabric Warp: Zari Weft: Zari Technique Used: Hadwa
http://www.ali-thompson.de
Etienne Jeanson
Etienne Jeanson is a young French couturier from the city of Lille. Closely attached to the expertise of Haute Couture. He acquired his skills at the prestigious Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne in fashion design and creation of model s . After having worked for brands like Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Junko Shimada and Tsumori Chisato, he pursued his apprenticeship with Anne Valérie Hash and Christian Lacroix and learned plumasserie with M. Legeron who supported him right from the beginning of his career. Passionate about history, it is in a perpetual juxtaposition between baroque and classicism that he discovered the starting point of his collections. Sober cuts and materials are at the basis of his work which is often influenced by the legendary Alfred Hitchcock or Mimmo Rotella.
Handwoven Banarasi Cotton Motifs: Floral Technique Used : Cutwork
Handwoven Banarasi Metallic Fabric Warp: Zari Weft: Zari Technique Used: Hadwa
http://www.etiennejeanson.com
Nico Thibault Francioni
It is his native Tuscany that has built his tastes and classic aesthetics whichh are enriched by several cosmopolitan influences.
Commencing his career as a jewelery designer, Nico Thibault Francioni widened his horizons and went to London to work for London's most famous brands (Harods, Harvey Nichols ...). That is how he became familiar with the world of fashion and luxury.
Then Paris was his next destination where he expands the merchandising of one of the most prestigious French luxury brands "Louis Vuitton - Champs Elysees". But the irresistible desire to acquire the values of solid expertise, meticulous work by hand, tailor-made, encouraged him to master styling and modelism that he learnt at Esmod.
Handwoven Banarasi Silk Motifs: Geometric Warp: Silk Weft: Silk Technique Used : Hadwa
Handwoven Silk in Kadwa Weave Motifs: Turkish Inspired Warp: Silk Weft: Georgette Technique Used: Hadwa
http://www.lamaledeffeenne.com/
Colleen Quen
Born and brought up in San Francisco California, since 1962, Colleen Quen is a fourth generation American, of Chinese descent. His charming private studio is in one of the highest hills in San Francisco, Telegraph towards Coit Tower.
Her dedication to sewing and art for three decades, in her city and internationally, is inspired by her cultural influences between the Eastern spiritual heritage, her American upbringing, and what she has learnt from French couture. This led her to exhibit ballet costumes and costumes from her private clientele around the world in her International Museum. She epitomizes optimistic poetry, romantic sculpturing, expressing and creating each piece of art with all her heart, her skillful hands, wit and the qualities of fabrics that she chooses.
Handwoven Banarasi Cotton Motifs: Floral Warp: Cotton Weft: Cotton Technique Used : Hadwa
www.quenlife.com
Fanny Acquart Gensollen
3 Rue Charles Weiss, 75015 Paris
https://fannyacquartgensollen.com/
The Fédération Française de la Création Couture Sur Mesure - Paris is an association founded in 2011 and its goal is to unite the professions of made–tomeasure attires.
Specialists in ensembles for special events: from the wedding dress, to the cocktail gown, or evening dress, to the formal suit, they work in the domain of made-to-measure to enhance the woman’s personality on special and unique occasions like cocktail parties, soirées, and weddings!
The creation of made-to-measure is above all an exchange with the client who can; thanks to these designers contribute so far as to create a unique model. Understanding the clients’ expectations, the designer makes a sketch, then creates a muslin mock-up dress to the client’s measurements, which is an essential step for the visualization of the future creation because it matches the first sample of the chosen model. It takes from 80 to 120 hours (at times more) to create a dress respecting the rules of couture. Beyond the mastery of their arts, these designers closely associate techniques and the desires of the person they must dress, never ever forgetting their own creativity.
A word from the President, Pierre Letz : « Our Federation strives to ensure the recognition of French designers and to highlight the expertise of the members of the association capable of creating, innovating, and producing in France high quality made-to-measure with the demands of refinement of « haute façon » and the inventiveness which each of our members has ».
Les ateliers Letz Martin and Beaumenay Joannet created Blossom Restaurant’s uniforms.